There are a number of different methods that gardeners use to propagate new plants. Seeds are obvious, but not always easy because some seeds require they remain dormant for a period of time, or are particular to what kind of conditions they will grow in. If you already have a parent plant, you can take a cutting a propagate with that.

The most common methods of propagating plants:

Seeds - Nature's most obvious method of propagation.

Division - Cut or pull apart the root ball of the plant to separate it into several separate plants. Perennials, some house plants, and some shrubs propagate well with this method.

Cuttings - This method requires slicing off a section of stem or sometimes a leaf and putting it in a rooting medium such as sand. Some cuttings work by putting the stems in water until roots form. This method works quite well with trimmed branches of many different types of trees.

Types of Cuttings

There are several types of cuttings as listed below:

1. Herbaceous cuttings are made from non-woody, herbaceous plants. When cutting this type of plant, a 3- to 5-inch piece of stem is cut from the parent plant and leaves on the lower half of the stem are removed. A high percentage of the cuttings root, and they do so quickly.

2. Softwood cuttings are prepared from soft, succulent, new growth of woody plants at the point when they begin to harden, or mature. Shoots are suitable when they can be snapped easily when bent and when they still have graduating leaf sizes according to age. Late spring, early summer is the best time to take cuttings, when shoots are soft and tender, though care must be taken to keep them from drying out. These types of cuttings root quickly.

3. Semi-hardwood cuttings are usually prepared from partially mature wood of the current season's growth, immediately following a growth spurge. Made in later summer to early fall, semi-hardwood cuttings are rather firm and the leaves are a mature size. Many broadleaf evergreen shrubs and some conifers are propagated by this method.

4. Hardwood cuttings are taken from dormant, mature stems in late fall, winter, or early spring, usually from dormant plants. Wood is firm and does not bend easily. Most hardwood cuttings are used for deciduous shrubs but can be used for many evergreens.

• There are three different types of hardwood cuttings: straight, mallet, and heel. The straight cutting is the most commonly used stem cutting, while mallet and heel cuttings are typically used for plants that prove more difficult to root. For the heel cutting, a small section of older wood is included at the base of the cutting. For the mallet cutting, an entire section of older stem wood is included.

Stem cutting is the most common for flowers and involves basic cutting or picking from outside flowers. These cuttings are placed in a vase. In order to be successful with this method, you should choose a piece that is about half grown, a few inches long, and that has at least a few sets of leaves. Cut the stem below a leaf where it is slightly wider and then remove the leaves. This location is where the roots will grow. This location must also be placed in a medium such as sand, peat moss, or water until roots develop and it can be put in soil. The entire process for stem cutting takes about six weeks and the roots will get an inch or so long.

Cuttings usually consist of the current or past season's growth. Whenever possible avoid materials that contain flower buds, so that the cutting can use its energy and nutrients to grow roots rather than flowers. Always take cuttings from healthy, disease-free plants, preferably from the upper part of the plant.

The fertility status of the stock, or parent, plant will influence rooting. Obviously, avoid taking cuttings from plants that show symptoms of mineral nutrient deficiency. However, also realize that plants that have been heavily fertilized may not root well either. The stock plant should not be under any kind of moisture stress. Generally speaking, it's easier and more beneficial to take cuttings from young plants rather than mature plants, as root development is better. As well, cuttings from lateral shoots often root better than cuttings from terminal shoots.

Morning is the best time to take cuttings, because the plant is fully turgid. It's also important to keep cuttings cool and moist until they are stuck, and a plastic bag or other container lined with wet towels can be used to temporarily store cuttings. If you can't place the cuttings into a medium right away, store them in a plastic bag in a refrigerator.

Terminal parts of the stem work best, but a long shoot can be divided into several cuttings, which can range from 4 to 6 inches long. Use a sharp, thin-bladed pocketknife or sharp pruning shears to cut, and if necessary, dip the cutting tool in rubbing alcohol or a mixture of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water to prevent transmitting diseases from infected plant parts to healthy ones. Better yet, use only healthy, vigorous plants from which to obtain cuttings.

Treating cuttings with root-promoting compounds are a good way to encourage rooting of some plants that might otherwise prove difficult to root. The rooting medium should be sterile, low in fertility, and well drained to provide sufficient aeration. It should also retain enough moisture so that watering does not have to be done too frequently. Materials commonly used are coarse sand, a mixture of one part peat and one part sand, by volume.

There are a number of different methods that gardeners use to propagate new plants. Seeds are obvious, but not always easy because some seeds require they remain dormant for a period of time, or are particular to what kind of conditions they will grow in. If you already have a parent plant, you can take a cutting and propagate with that.

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