The Crape Myrtle, Lagerstroemia indica, is one
of the most ideal choices for a tree in a small garden, backyard or
patio. It is also fairly modest in its water needs and so is
particularly suitable for dry and Mediterranean gardens. It has an
attractive form, delicate leaf texture and as a deciduous plant, looks
good when out of leaf, not least due to its reddish pealing bark.
It
is usually chosen however because of its amazing flower display in the
summer months; Crape Myrtle blooms being one of the highlights of the
gardening calendar. While being impressed by flower display alone is
normally a bad reason for choosing a particular tree species, in the
case of Lagerstroemia, by virtue of its small size and non-aggressive
roots, an exception can be made. In fact the flower color is so
significant that uniquely perhaps among trees, it determines the
pruning method to be adopted.
Pruning to shape trees almost
always involves removing whole branches at their base, rather than
shortening them, as with shrubs and bushes. This is so in order to
maintain the natural shape and flow of the tree. Conversely, the
branches of flowering shrubs like roses are shortened, to induce better
and more prolific flowering. It should be remembered that roses are not
generally grown for their form and habit, but virtually exclusively for
their blooms. It follows therefore, that while we may be interested in
enhancing the floral effect of the Crape Myrtle by means of pruning
branches short, care must be taken not to ruin the form of the tree in
the process. How can this be achieved?
*Firstly, branches should
not be cut back too radically. It's best to clip up to a third of the
length of the branches. The clipping prevents the limb from shooting on
as a long thin branch, encourages lateral growth and as mentioned
before, superior blooms. On the other hand, cutting too far down on the
branch, is liable to adversely affect the shape of the tree,
particularly in the winter when it is bare of leaves.
*It is not
necessary to prune/shorten each and every branch. As with all trees,
removing excessive material at one session is liable to damage the
energy level of the plant, thereby affecting its overall vitality and
rendering it more susceptible to pests and disease.
*As pruning
is carried out in the winter when the tree is out of leaf, it's quite
easy to discern where the previous season's pruning cuts were made.
It's possible therefore to alternate between cutting limbs that were
untouched a year ago, while leaving alone those that were pruned. In
this way, a balance is struck between flower production on the one hand
and the general health of the tree on the other.
*Lagerstroemia
indica tends to sprout new shoots from its base but it's not necessary
to religiously remove each one. On the contrary, as the trunks are
relatively thin in diameter, Crape Myrtle actually looks better grown
as a multi-stemmed tree. Furthermore, as persistent pruning tends to
weaken branches in the long run, younger stems can be earmarked to
replace older ones which over the years have lost their vitality.
I've
been gardening in a professional capacity since 1984. I am the former
head gardener of the Jerusalem Botanical Garden, but now concentrate on
building gardens for private home owners. I also teach horticulture to
students on training courses. I'd love to help you get the very best
from your garden, so you're welcome to visit me on http://www.dryclimategardening.com